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Latest Cumulus MX V4 release 4.0.1 (build 4023) - 16 May 2024
Latest Cumulus MX V3 release 3.28.6 (build 3283) - 21 March 2024
Legacy Cumulus 1 release 1.9.4 (build 1099) - 28 November 2014
(a patch is available for 1.9.4 build 1099 that extends the date range of drop-down menus to 2030)
Download the Software (Cumulus MX / Cumulus 1 and other related items) from the Wiki
Photos of the insides of Fine Offset sensors.
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- Posts: 1126
- Joined: Sat 26 Feb 2011 1:58 pm
- Weather Station: Fine Offset 1080/1 & 3080
- Operating System: Windows XP SP3
- Location: SE London
Re: Photos of the insides of Fine Offset sensors.
Hi,
No, changing the SAW alone is unlikely to work. The transmitting antenna is tuned; if it were a quarter-wave "monopole" (piece of wire) it could be doubled in length, but it is probably a tuned loop built onto the PCB. Some details are at the foot of page 3 and top of page 4 of this present thread. Manual tuning is likely to need at least access to a signal strength meter, but other component changes also may be required.
The early Signatrol WH3080 stations were definitely 434 MHz, but I don't know about their more recent stock.
FWIW, it might be moderately easy to change the frequency of a Console (some photos in the adjacent sticky thread). They seem to have a separate receiver module (which could be substituted, provided it has only 4 pins) and a simple wire monopole. But there may still be issues with the incompatible wireless protocol used by earlier stations and perhaps also some more recent 915 MHz (USA) versions.
Cheers, Alan.
No, changing the SAW alone is unlikely to work. The transmitting antenna is tuned; if it were a quarter-wave "monopole" (piece of wire) it could be doubled in length, but it is probably a tuned loop built onto the PCB. Some details are at the foot of page 3 and top of page 4 of this present thread. Manual tuning is likely to need at least access to a signal strength meter, but other component changes also may be required.
The early Signatrol WH3080 stations were definitely 434 MHz, but I don't know about their more recent stock.
FWIW, it might be moderately easy to change the frequency of a Console (some photos in the adjacent sticky thread). They seem to have a separate receiver module (which could be substituted, provided it has only 4 pins) and a simple wire monopole. But there may still be issues with the incompatible wireless protocol used by earlier stations and perhaps also some more recent 915 MHz (USA) versions.
Cheers, Alan.
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- Posts: 16
- Joined: Fri 24 Jun 2011 2:20 pm
- Weather Station: WH3080
- Operating System: MacOSX
- Location: Studland, Dorset
Re: Photos of the insides of Fine Offset sensors.
Have had the covers off the receiver console and it does not look too good. There is not much there that looks as though it can be modified.
If I am going to use the WH3080 transmitter which works at 868MHz with my receiver at 433MHz I'm going to have to modify my receiver. From where I'm standing it does not look good, however I'm a digital person more than an RF person so I'll be advised.You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
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- Posts: 1126
- Joined: Sat 26 Feb 2011 1:58 pm
- Weather Station: Fine Offset 1080/1 & 3080
- Operating System: Windows XP SP3
- Location: SE London
Re: Photos of the insides of Fine Offset sensors.
Hi,
Hmm, there's no sign of a transmitter there (just some antenna-tuning and a couple of supply decoupling capacitors), so we have to assume that the transmitter is on the other side of the PCB. That means it's probably a "Chip On Board" (under a black blob of epoxy) which is impossible to do anything with.
The next stage depends if your 868 MHz transmitter can be returned and if the "Signatrol" offering operates at 434 MHz.
If neither is possible, then I'd consider adding a battery and 434 MHz transmitter module (with an antenna of course) directly inside the Solar Pod, to use in conjunction with the Maplin 434 MHz external transmitter (no physical connection to it is needed). Two Alkaline or NiMH AAs would be possible, but I prefer a single LiFePO4 AA cell (3.2 volts) such as from Maplin (shops only). Various 434 MHz transmitter modules are available on ebay for less than a few Pounds, but usually have to be ordered from China (so up to a months wait). Check that they are specified to work down to 3 volts or less, because many still require 5 volts or more.
The above is what I have plans to do with my own Pod at some time (I already have all the parts), but I'm afraid it's not particularly high on my "to do" list.
Cheers, Alan.
Hmm, there's no sign of a transmitter there (just some antenna-tuning and a couple of supply decoupling capacitors), so we have to assume that the transmitter is on the other side of the PCB. That means it's probably a "Chip On Board" (under a black blob of epoxy) which is impossible to do anything with.
The next stage depends if your 868 MHz transmitter can be returned and if the "Signatrol" offering operates at 434 MHz.
If neither is possible, then I'd consider adding a battery and 434 MHz transmitter module (with an antenna of course) directly inside the Solar Pod, to use in conjunction with the Maplin 434 MHz external transmitter (no physical connection to it is needed). Two Alkaline or NiMH AAs would be possible, but I prefer a single LiFePO4 AA cell (3.2 volts) such as from Maplin (shops only). Various 434 MHz transmitter modules are available on ebay for less than a few Pounds, but usually have to be ordered from China (so up to a months wait). Check that they are specified to work down to 3 volts or less, because many still require 5 volts or more.
The above is what I have plans to do with my own Pod at some time (I already have all the parts), but I'm afraid it's not particularly high on my "to do" list.
Cheers, Alan.
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- Posts: 1126
- Joined: Sat 26 Feb 2011 1:58 pm
- Weather Station: Fine Offset 1080/1 & 3080
- Operating System: Windows XP SP3
- Location: SE London
Re: Photos of the insides of Fine Offset sensors.
Hi,
A brief update to the above. I've now tried a SYN115 transmitter module, directly connected to the Solar Pod Power Supply (Vcc), ETH and RF-Data pins, and it seems to transmit well (maximum range not yet tested). Around £1 from China if you're patient, or there is one ebay UK seller with a rather high premium for quick delivery. There are even 3 adjacent pads with 0.1" pitch on the Pod PCB, but NOT in the correct sequence (ETH is in the middle on PCB, at one end on the module).
The "batteries" print on the PCB appears to be for two AAA cells; a basic black plastic holder for two, side-by-side, can be obtained for around £1 and should fit under the PCB, but it may be necessary to (re)move the cable (which is no longer needed anyway). The transmitter is rated for a supply of 1.8 to 3.6 volts, so a pair of AAA NiMH (2.4v) should be fine; a pack from a Pound store may be good enough, but a pair of well-branded LSD (e.g. 7dayshop or Hobbyking) could be better.
This may be an easier modification to make than extending the Solar Pod cables (to improve its location), but of course won't charge the main transmitter batteries. However, you may well get better life from a pair of good quality AA Alkalines or non-rechargeable Lithiums, than from the (supplied) so-called "Rechargeable Alkalines".
Hardly any more details should be needed for this simple modification, but maybe I'll post something more in due course. However, my own plans are a little more ambitious, to add an 8-pin microcontroller to report other "interesting" data such as the battery voltage, charging current, pod internal temperature and perhaps direct calculation of sunshine hours, etc..
Cheers, Alan.
A brief update to the above. I've now tried a SYN115 transmitter module, directly connected to the Solar Pod Power Supply (Vcc), ETH and RF-Data pins, and it seems to transmit well (maximum range not yet tested). Around £1 from China if you're patient, or there is one ebay UK seller with a rather high premium for quick delivery. There are even 3 adjacent pads with 0.1" pitch on the Pod PCB, but NOT in the correct sequence (ETH is in the middle on PCB, at one end on the module).
The "batteries" print on the PCB appears to be for two AAA cells; a basic black plastic holder for two, side-by-side, can be obtained for around £1 and should fit under the PCB, but it may be necessary to (re)move the cable (which is no longer needed anyway). The transmitter is rated for a supply of 1.8 to 3.6 volts, so a pair of AAA NiMH (2.4v) should be fine; a pack from a Pound store may be good enough, but a pair of well-branded LSD (e.g. 7dayshop or Hobbyking) could be better.
This may be an easier modification to make than extending the Solar Pod cables (to improve its location), but of course won't charge the main transmitter batteries. However, you may well get better life from a pair of good quality AA Alkalines or non-rechargeable Lithiums, than from the (supplied) so-called "Rechargeable Alkalines".
Hardly any more details should be needed for this simple modification, but maybe I'll post something more in due course. However, my own plans are a little more ambitious, to add an 8-pin microcontroller to report other "interesting" data such as the battery voltage, charging current, pod internal temperature and perhaps direct calculation of sunshine hours, etc..
Cheers, Alan.
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- Posts: 8
- Joined: Sat 05 Jan 2013 4:18 pm
- Weather Station: WH24
- Operating System: Win 7
- Location: Cape Town, RSA
Re: Photos of the insides of Fine Offset sensors.
Hi All
I have some pics of my "HP1000" Fine Offset outdoor unit.
I did not buy the whole set, just the outdoor unit as i want to decode the RF with a ESP8266 - ESP12, and send that to WU.
So far i have seen that it use FSK, still trying to decode this - if anyone has info that could help... it transmit a string every 16 seconds.
It seems to have 4x 0xAA as a preamble, then i count 20 Bytes and the CRC at the end, if someone can confirm this??
Here are some internal pics.
I have some pics of my "HP1000" Fine Offset outdoor unit.
I did not buy the whole set, just the outdoor unit as i want to decode the RF with a ESP8266 - ESP12, and send that to WU.
So far i have seen that it use FSK, still trying to decode this - if anyone has info that could help... it transmit a string every 16 seconds.
It seems to have 4x 0xAA as a preamble, then i count 20 Bytes and the CRC at the end, if someone can confirm this??
Here are some internal pics.
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
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- Posts: 1126
- Joined: Sat 26 Feb 2011 1:58 pm
- Weather Station: Fine Offset 1080/1 & 3080
- Operating System: Windows XP SP3
- Location: SE London
Re: Photos of the insides of Fine Offset sensors.
Hi,
The "old" Fine Offset wireless protocol (up to about 2012 when the OOK protocol was first introduced on the 308x solar stations) used a burst of 47 ms FSK. But I never managed to decode that protocol because it uses an "intelligent" RF chip with a data buffer, so all the "hacking" needs to be done on the two-wire I2C or SPI data bus.
The recent 434/868 MHz OOK transmitters send a total of 11 bytes every 48 seconds, including an "FF" preamble and 8-bit CRC. Then there are two additional (optional) packets for the Solar Data and RCC. IIRC most of the data is transmitted in pure binary (not BCD) with "zero temperature" at -40 degrees C.
Cheers, Alan.
Welcome to the forum. Is that FSK data on 2.4 GHz (WiFi/Bluetooth) or 434 MHz? The helical antenna in photo #1 looks very like those sold for/with 434 MHz transmitters (such as the HC-12). But the 30 MHz crystal suggests a higher frequency.Zodiac69 wrote:So far i have seen that it use FSK, still trying to decode this - if anyone has info that could help... it transmit a string every 16 seconds.
It seems to have 4x 0xAA as a preamble, then i count 20 Bytes and the CRC at the end, if someone can confirm this??
The "old" Fine Offset wireless protocol (up to about 2012 when the OOK protocol was first introduced on the 308x solar stations) used a burst of 47 ms FSK. But I never managed to decode that protocol because it uses an "intelligent" RF chip with a data buffer, so all the "hacking" needs to be done on the two-wire I2C or SPI data bus.
The recent 434/868 MHz OOK transmitters send a total of 11 bytes every 48 seconds, including an "FF" preamble and 8-bit CRC. Then there are two additional (optional) packets for the Solar Data and RCC. IIRC most of the data is transmitted in pure binary (not BCD) with "zero temperature" at -40 degrees C.
Cheers, Alan.
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- Posts: 8
- Joined: Sat 05 Jan 2013 4:18 pm
- Weather Station: WH24
- Operating System: Win 7
- Location: Cape Town, RSA
Re: Photos of the insides of Fine Offset sensors.
Hi AllyCat
It is at 433.92MHz, sorry i should have mentioned that i have a RFM69 connected to my ESP-12 via SPI.
I tried the SI44X83, but further study into the data sheet indicated that it would not work.
RFM69 data sheet show that it can accommodate an pre-amble of 0xAA, so as i detected 4x 0xAA, that is what i am looking at.
I used a RTL2832 USB to record the data, strip it with Audacity, still trying to decode the rest of the data.
It is at 433.92MHz, sorry i should have mentioned that i have a RFM69 connected to my ESP-12 via SPI.
I tried the SI44X83, but further study into the data sheet indicated that it would not work.
RFM69 data sheet show that it can accommodate an pre-amble of 0xAA, so as i detected 4x 0xAA, that is what i am looking at.
I used a RTL2832 USB to record the data, strip it with Audacity, still trying to decode the rest of the data.
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- Posts: 8
- Joined: Sat 05 Jan 2013 4:18 pm
- Weather Station: WH24
- Operating System: Win 7
- Location: Cape Town, RSA
Re: Photos of the insides of Fine Offset sensors.
Hi All
Had some issues decoding via Audacity.
So i loaded rtl_443 and captured some data, here is a few
d5 55 55 55 55 16 ea 12 5f 86 31 34 20 80 00 00 00 00 00 20 00 00 0e be 62
d5 55 55 55 55 16 ea 12 5f 86 31 33 20 80 00 00 00 00 00 20 00 00 07 a7 30
Moved the wind direction 180 deg.
d5 55 55 55 55 16 ea 12 5f ce 31 34 20 00 00 00 00 00 00 20 00 00 0e 67 00
d5 55 55 55 55 16 ea 12 5f ce 31 35 1f 80 00 00 00 00 00 20 00 00 0e 36 e0
Need someone with a bit more expertise in protocol cracking than me to assist...
The unit is still new, have not installed it outside as i would not want to climb up and down the roof every time i need to something.
Had some issues decoding via Audacity.
So i loaded rtl_443 and captured some data, here is a few
d5 55 55 55 55 16 ea 12 5f 86 31 34 20 80 00 00 00 00 00 20 00 00 0e be 62
d5 55 55 55 55 16 ea 12 5f 86 31 33 20 80 00 00 00 00 00 20 00 00 07 a7 30
Moved the wind direction 180 deg.
d5 55 55 55 55 16 ea 12 5f ce 31 34 20 00 00 00 00 00 00 20 00 00 0e 67 00
d5 55 55 55 55 16 ea 12 5f ce 31 35 1f 80 00 00 00 00 00 20 00 00 0e 36 e0
Need someone with a bit more expertise in protocol cracking than me to assist...
The unit is still new, have not installed it outside as i would not want to climb up and down the roof every time i need to something.
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- Posts: 1126
- Joined: Sat 26 Feb 2011 1:58 pm
- Weather Station: Fine Offset 1080/1 & 3080
- Operating System: Windows XP SP3
- Location: SE London
Re: Photos of the insides of Fine Offset sensors.
Hi,
You'll need a lot more data than that!
The string(s) of zeros are probably the rain counter (at least two bytes) and the Wind Gust and Average (1 byte each). So try a sequence of Rain Tips and (separately) spinning the anemometer. Those 80s before the 00s might indicate that all the data is displaced one bit to the right. The only FO External Data packet format that I know (OOK) uses only 10 bytes + one runin (byte).
Moving the vane by 180 degrees should only change one bit, try also 90 degrees and 45 degrees. Don't bother with the intermediate positions (NNE, etc.) as they're rarely detected anyway. Humidity will be one byte and temperature coded in tenths of a degree (both pure binary), so shouldn't change too much. There's probably one bit for Low battery and another for invalid wind direction (e.g. cable unplugged). The last byte(s) is probably a CRC which will change when any other data changes. Obviously the Run-In and Address shouldn't change at all (except maybe increment if the battery is replaced).
Cheers, Alan.
You'll need a lot more data than that!
The string(s) of zeros are probably the rain counter (at least two bytes) and the Wind Gust and Average (1 byte each). So try a sequence of Rain Tips and (separately) spinning the anemometer. Those 80s before the 00s might indicate that all the data is displaced one bit to the right. The only FO External Data packet format that I know (OOK) uses only 10 bytes + one runin (byte).
Moving the vane by 180 degrees should only change one bit, try also 90 degrees and 45 degrees. Don't bother with the intermediate positions (NNE, etc.) as they're rarely detected anyway. Humidity will be one byte and temperature coded in tenths of a degree (both pure binary), so shouldn't change too much. There's probably one bit for Low battery and another for invalid wind direction (e.g. cable unplugged). The last byte(s) is probably a CRC which will change when any other data changes. Obviously the Run-In and Address shouldn't change at all (except maybe increment if the battery is replaced).
Cheers, Alan.
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- Posts: 8
- Joined: Sat 05 Jan 2013 4:18 pm
- Weather Station: WH24
- Operating System: Win 7
- Location: Cape Town, RSA
Re: Photos of the insides of Fine Offset sensors.
Hi AllyCat
Yes, i shall do a few tests with - Wind Speed, Direction, rain, light, UV, temp and humidity.
I shall record each one a few times and then see what changes.
Once i have done this, i shall post the data.
I was hoping that someone has done this model of Weather Station.
Yes, i shall do a few tests with - Wind Speed, Direction, rain, light, UV, temp and humidity.
I shall record each one a few times and then see what changes.
Once i have done this, i shall post the data.
I was hoping that someone has done this model of Weather Station.
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- Posts: 6
- Joined: Fri 16 Oct 2015 6:50 am
- Weather Station: PanTech (Fine Offset) WH3081
- Operating System: Windows XP Pro SP3
- Location: Gundagai, NSW, Australia
- Contact:
Re: Photos of the insides of Fine Offset sensors.
I've just found out the hard way that if the little magnet in the rain gauge isn't fully seated, it can scrape on the plastic "wall", stop the bucket from fully tipping, and hang up the whole station until it's reset.
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
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- Posts: 6
- Joined: Thu 20 Dec 2012 11:14 am
- Weather Station: WH1080
- Operating System: Debian
- Location: United Kingdom
Re: Photos of the insides of Fine Offset sensors.
Does anyone know where to obtain the battery connectors from the transmitter PCB?
The distance from the PCB to the center of the battery contacts is 7mm on mine. Looks like there are two tabs that slot into the PCB for soldering.
The closest I can find are these: http://www.keyelco.com/category.cfm/AA- ... /c_id/1218 but they have one very long tab.
Keystone has PCB mounted connectors elsewhere on their website but they are 8.9mm from PCB to center of battery contents, so too tall.
Background: I am designing my own drop-in replacement PCB and I don't want to modify the housing in any way.
Thanks!!
The distance from the PCB to the center of the battery contacts is 7mm on mine. Looks like there are two tabs that slot into the PCB for soldering.
The closest I can find are these: http://www.keyelco.com/category.cfm/AA- ... /c_id/1218 but they have one very long tab.
Keystone has PCB mounted connectors elsewhere on their website but they are 8.9mm from PCB to center of battery contents, so too tall.
Background: I am designing my own drop-in replacement PCB and I don't want to modify the housing in any way.
Thanks!!
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- Posts: 1126
- Joined: Sat 26 Feb 2011 1:58 pm
- Weather Station: Fine Offset 1080/1 & 3080
- Operating System: Windows XP SP3
- Location: SE London
Re: Photos of the insides of Fine Offset sensors.
Hi,
IIRC the original transmitters used "flat plate" spring contacts at both ends (with not even any plastic moulding to protect against revered polarity), which can make it necessary to search for tiny +/- symbols on the plastic when changing batteries. Later versions seem to use the more traditional helical spring for the negative contact, but these can be a little more difficult to feed through the slot in the case.
But sorry, like several other posts in this thread, I don't know of any supplier or distributor of "spare parts" for these stations.
Cheers, Alan.
I think you mean from the inside of the "battery box" plastic case, because AA cells are exactly 14 mm in diameter (they're also known as "14500" cells, i.e. 14 mm in diameter and 50.0 mm long). Sourcing "spare parts" for items made in China can be notoriously difficult, and Fine Offset have used at least two types.of battery contact:ajayre wrote:The distance from the PCB to the center of the battery contacts is 7mm on mine.
IIRC the original transmitters used "flat plate" spring contacts at both ends (with not even any plastic moulding to protect against revered polarity), which can make it necessary to search for tiny +/- symbols on the plastic when changing batteries. Later versions seem to use the more traditional helical spring for the negative contact, but these can be a little more difficult to feed through the slot in the case.
But sorry, like several other posts in this thread, I don't know of any supplier or distributor of "spare parts" for these stations.
Cheers, Alan.
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- Posts: 6
- Joined: Thu 20 Dec 2012 11:14 am
- Weather Station: WH1080
- Operating System: Debian
- Location: United Kingdom
Re: Photos of the insides of Fine Offset sensors.
Thanks for the reply. I meant from the top surface of the PCB to the center of the contacts, e.g. the spring. So this is measuring the position of the end of the batteries relative to the location of the PCB. Any replacement has to have the same height to fit into the case.AllyCat wrote:Hi,
I think you mean from the inside of the "battery box" plastic case, because AA cells are exactly 14 mm in diameter (they're also known as "14500" cells, i.e. 14 mm in diameter and 50.0 mm long).ajayre wrote:The distance from the PCB to the center of the battery contacts is 7mm on mine.
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- Posts: 123
- Joined: Sun 06 Apr 2014 1:15 pm
- Weather Station: wh1080
- Operating System: windows7
- Location: south-west-germany
Is it possible to change the Humidity-Sensor on the circuit board?
Hi,
I have 2 WH1080 Thermo-Hygro-Transmitter.
The Temperature-Sensor works exactly, but the Humidity-Sensor is worn.
Is it possible to change the Humidity-Sensor on the circuit board?
If it possible, which component on the circuit board is the Humidity-Sensor?
Many thanks for help.
I have 2 WH1080 Thermo-Hygro-Transmitter.
The Temperature-Sensor works exactly, but the Humidity-Sensor is worn.
Is it possible to change the Humidity-Sensor on the circuit board?
If it possible, which component on the circuit board is the Humidity-Sensor?
Many thanks for help.